Herbal Stick Deodorant
Ingredients:
1 1/2 tbspn beeswax
1/2 tbspn cocoa butter
1 tablespoon coconut oil
15 drops white thyme essential oil
15 drops rosemary essential oil
25 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops castor oil
Directions:
Melt beeswax in a glass jar standing in hot water, add the cocoa butter, and when it has melted, add the oils. Stir to mix thoroughly, then pour into a clean, discarded deodorant stick case and leave to cool and set
posted by Nina
A recent TIME article discussed the Fair Trade coffee, asking if it is really making a difference. Fair Trade was orignally set up to get more money to farmers and farm workers who grow coffee. We have all heard about how capitalism has a trickle down effect, this is the basic idea. The coffee is purchased and sold at a premium and the money is meant to trickle back to the growers. However the reality is that once the farmers pay the Fair Trade co-operative fees the Fair Trade deal is only marginally better than the “standard” one and still leaves the farmer in poverty. Farmers say that Fair Trade prices have not kept up with cost increases.
In light of Starbucks recent move towards Fair Trade, it’s time we the consumer asked questions about which companies are really helping end poverty and which are only using as greenwashing.
posted by Nina
920g distilled water
114g bar castille soap  (grated orÂ
 flaked), you can also use 1 cup unscented shampoo Â
 as an alternative to the castille soap.
85g liquid glycerin
3 drops lavender fragrant or essential oil
Â
Directions:
Â
Mix all ingredients together. Store in a container. Pour in warm running water.
Â
Posted by Nina
Good morning!
And todays topic will be ‘greenwashing’.
Open your text books please. Greenwashing is now a well known term used to talk about companies using green polices to hide unethical business practices. I am tempted to suggest that we play a game now where we list companies we think might be doing this. Instead I suggest you look above at the example used, here Tesco suggested that we cut back on energy in the home only to hop on a plane later.
I am starting to get fed up of larger companies failure to really examine their business practises instead using green washing.
Tesco’s are right ‘every little helps’ but this is only the case if everything else you do doesnt make that little bit worthless.
Here at Akoma Skincare we believe that business practise should be traceable and transparent. We expect consumers to demand that we are accountable for our actions and we feel that this is the way all business should be done, no matter how large or small.
Take care
Nina
2 Top companies Shea Body Butter ingredients list
Company 1
Ingredients: Aqua, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Theobroma Cacao Butter, Bis PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter), Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Parfum, Alcohol Denat. Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Caramel, Butylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben,
Company 2
Ingredients: Aqua (Water) (Solvent/Diluent), Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) (Emollient), Cyclomethicone (Emollient), Theobroma cacao (Cocoa Butter) (Emollient), Glycerin (Humectant), Glyceryl Stearate (Emulsifier), PEG-100 Stearate (Surfactant), Cetearyl Alcohol (Emulsifier), Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Emulsifier/Emollient), Orbignya oleifera (Babassu Oil) (Emollient), Lanolin Alcohol (Stabiliser/Emollient), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Parfum (Fragrance), Methylparaben (Preservative), Propylparaben (Preservative), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Modifier), Benzyl Alcohol (Preservative), Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent), Linalool (Fragrance Ingredient), Coumarin (Fragrance Ingredient), Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone (Fragrance Ingredient), Limonene (Fragrance Ingredient), Butylphenyl Methylpropional (Fragrance Ingredient), Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster), Citronellol (Fragrance Ingredient), Citral (Fragrance Ingredient), Geraniol (Fragrance Ingredient), Eugenol (Fragrance Ingredient), Caramel (Colour), CI 19140 (Colour).
Five things to know -
1. Ingredient listed first has the highest concentration
Skin care list their ingredients in order of highest to the lowest concentration.
2. Some toxic ingredients maybe very small
The ingredients last on the label are referred to as “trace elements. These are often parabens which are usually listed – methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. These may still be in small amounts but could have a cumulative effect on the skin.
3. Only the top 33% of the ingredients matters
According to an article, about 90% of the skin care product is made from the top 33% of the ingredients which means those listed after the 33% are probably trace elements only. Another way to read labels is to divide the ingredient list into thirds: the top third usually contains 90-95% of the product, the middle third usually contains 5-8% and the bottom third, 1-3%.
4. Active ingredient need to be in large amounts to be effective
One of the important aspects of reading skin care labels is understanding what sort of ingredients the product has and in what concentration if it is to do something for your skin. If you’re paying a lot of money for a product that promises skin regeneration with the ability to reverse your aging process, then it should contain active ingredients with antioxidant properties in large amounts to be effective.
5. Some ingredients may look the same but aren’t.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate also SLS for short, isn’t the same as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. The former is a plant derived cleansing agent and is much more skin friendly.
Alternatively just buy Akoma Raw Shea Butter made with a 100% organic Fairtrade Raw shea butter.
Take Care
Nina
Good Morning!
Today I bring you a quote from Fairtrade:
Thresholds defined within the Cosmetics policy for a product to be eligible for Fairtrade labelling have been set at the following wet weight formulation levels:
·         Minimum 2% for ‘wash off’ products (on a whole product basis) e.g. shampoos and soaps
·         Minimum 5% for ‘leave on’ products (on a whole product basis) e.g. face masks and scrubs
These thresholds open up the potential market for Fairtrade labelling to 53% of the total cosmetics market because they are applicable to the best selling volume lines (where higher thresholds would not) and permit a wide range of cosmetics products to be formulated containing Fairtrade ingredients and their derivatives.
Asking for a minimum of 2% may well be widening the market (to 53%) however, is it undermining the hard work that the grassroots fairtrade beauty companies have been doing for many years?
I wonder if Fairtrade have made a Faustian deal. A deal in which Fairtrade has ensured big business can offer free marketing to them, giving great exposure. The question is have they thought through what the cost will be?
Fairtrade might not consider themselves the guardian of ethics, I did consider them to have ethical concerns. Was I wrong?
Another quote from Fairtrade:
Fairtrade addresses the injustices of conventional trade, which traditionally discriminates against the poorest, weakest producers. It enables them to improve their position and have more control over their lives.
These small companies here in the UK (effectively the weakest, poorest companies) are likely not to survive the cut-throat market that Fairtrade themselves have created here in the UK market place. Larger companies look set to push honest hard working companies out the market as they introduce their 2% fairtrade bargain basement beauty products. Simply put the – the  2% policy encourages companies to capitalise on Fairtrade instead of actually changing their business from the ground up to encourage more ethical business practises. The Fairtrade logo acts as nothing more than smoke screen behind which unethical business practise can continue unchecked.
My question is how ethical do we expect Fairtrade to be? Is 2% enough?
Lets start a conversation about this…
To be continued…
Take Care
Nina
Things You’ll Need:
Step 1
Add shine to lacklustre hair with a tea rinse. Brewed and cooled black tea is ideal for dark hair and chamomile tea for blonde hair. Rinse hair with the tea decoction after shampooing and conditioning hair. Let the rinse sit on hair for about 10 minutes before washing it off. Tea being naturally acidic balances the ph of hair and adds a lot of shine and bounce to hair.
Step 2
Refresh puffy eyes with a homemade green tea treatment. Instead of throwing green tea bags away after making tea with them, refrigerate them for 15 minutes and apply them on tired eyes to relieve puffiness.
Step 3
Soothe irritated skin with chamomile tea. Brew some chamomile tea and let it cool. Soak a few cotton pads in the tea and apply to sensitive skin to calm down redness and irritation.
Step 4
Reduce facial hair with spearmint tea. Spearmint tea is known to have an anti-androgenic effect and acts by suppressing the hormones that are responsible for facial hair. Drink two cups of spearmint tea everyday for hormone balance. Use some brewed tea as a topical treatment on areas with facial hair.
Step 5
Tone and add glow to facial skin with a deep cleansing mask made with tulsi (holy basil) tea. Make a strong brew of tulsi/holy basil tea with two tea-bags to a cup. Mix the cooled brew to two tablespoons of chick pea flour to form a thick paste. Add a few drops of lemon juice to the paste. Apply a thin even layer on face and wash off after the face mask dries.
Step 6
Freshen breath with a natural mouth wash made with green tea and mint tea. Brew some green tea and peppermint/wintermint/spearmint tea together using tea-bags. Swish the brew around for a minute in the mouth to kill odour causing bacteria and a minty breath.
Step 7
Rejuvenate tired feet with a peppermint tea foot soak. Brew a strong cup of peppermint tea and add to a bowl of hot water. Add some Epsom salts to the bowl. Soak feet in the bowl for a few minutes and feel stress melting away.
posted by Nina
Natural Skincare.
We all know the adverts that tell us they will give us flawless glowing skin and claim to offer us the next great miracle. The countless anti-aging creams that claim to restore that now lost youthful glow to women’s faces. Do we really believe these claims? And more importantly, should we?
Natural skincare is now a highly publicized and sought after commodity. From high priced brands to low cost own brand products, all are promising us the most pure, natural, clean product. Many do contain natural ingredients like Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter and natural oils that do themselves benefit the skin greatly. New York City based dermatologist Fredric Brandt, M.D., says “[What is] just as important as what the natural formulas contain is what they leave out. Ideally, it’s a long list of potential irritants, including synthetic fragrance compounds and dyes that can aggravate sensitive skin.” However, don’t be too gullible. While some brands are healthier than most forms of skin care many brands claim their products are natural and aren’t. It is important to remember that the “all-natural” label on skincare brands is not always accurate. Their version of what may be natural is not always in accordance with what the public deems as natural, so beware of labels that claim to be ‘Shea Butter’, ‘all-natural’ or ‘pure’.
Anti-aging moisturizers have also joined the list of doubtful beauty products. Consumers are promised youthful, rejuvenated skin with a dramatic difference in fine lines and wrinkles. “When [skincare]Â is loaded with proven wrinkle-reducing ingredients like retinol and peptides, it can be effective,” says Patricia Farris, M.D., a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine. However, Farris adds that in order to see difference in one’s appearance, the concentration of these chemicals must be very high, and most drug store brand moisturizers do not succeed in the drastic differences shown in before and after pictures on the adverts.
The beauty industry is creating healthier and more effective skincare for customers, but consumers must be aware of ingredients and makeup myths. There are in fact much better alternatives to certain kinds of skincare and consumers must be readily equipped with such knowledge.
My advice is to look at the labels on your skincare products; do you know what’s in there? If you don’t it might be time to start making your own of looking for a true natural alternative.
Avoid these toxins:
1. Parabens:
The four paraben sisters – Methyl, Ethyl, Butyl, and Propyl. Used as preservatives to extend the shelf life of a product. These ingredients contain highly effective anti-microbial properties. For this reason, they are widely used in the beauty industry. Unfortunately, they are also toxic. Not much effort is required to uncover the mountains of information regarding the toxicity of these synthetic preservatives. Do not use any product that contains any ingredient ending with the word “paraben.”
2. Tetrasodium EDTA:
A preservative made from the known carcinogen – formaldehyde and sodium cyanide. Also used as a ‘penetration enhancer’ in the beauty industry. This means it actually breaks down the skin’s protective barrier, going right into your bloodstream. How lovely.
3. Urea (Diazolidinyl and Imidazolidinyl):
Another synthetic preservative. As the ingredient starts to break down sitting on the shelf, it releases formaldehyde. Research has shown the ingredient to be a primary cause of contact dermatitis. Growing evidence of links to other diseases.
4. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS):
Sodium Laurel Sulfate is a great detergent. It really is. In fact it is so good that it is used in laundry detergent, dishwasher powder, pipe cleaners, car wash liquid, and many other commercial cleansing products. We wonder though, why anyone would use it to clean their skin? It causes eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, and allergic reactions, among many other issues. In research studies, SLS has been used to determine if someone has skin allergies by rubbing it on the skin and waiting for a reaction. Avoid this ingredient if you want healthy, rash free skin. Also beware that some companies try to convince consumers that their SLS is ‘coconut derived’ and somehow safe. Not true. It is used for one reason, it is very inexpensive. We don’t use it because we don’t need it, and our customers are worth the extra cost and effort in formulating great products without it.
5. Fragrance (Parfum):
Our current favorite toxin. We enjoy reading about this ‘loophole’ of a word. You see, legally you can create the most toxic sludge on the planet, label it ‘fragrance’ and that is it for labeling requirements. One word covers it all. Ever come across a cologne or perfume and suddenly start sneezing, or worse your skin develops a rash? It’s because in that scent, there is a toxin that you are reacting to at that moment. Who knows what it is. So when you see the word ‘Parfum’ on the label, avoid the product.
6. Petrolatum:
Petrolatum is a mineral oil based jelly. Use often leads to dryness and chapping of skin. This ingredient causes the very problem it claims to treat. Another ingredient used because it is cheap.
7. Propylene Glycol:
A tricky one here. Can actually be made from vegetable glycerine and grain alcohol, but more often than not is a synthetic petrochemical mix. This is used as a penetration enhancer, which accelerates penetration and leads the product directly into your bloodstream. Avoid.
8. Stearalkonium Chloride:
A chemical often used in hair conditioners and creams. Stearakonium Chloride was originally developed by the chemical industry as a fabric softener. It can cause rash and allergic reactions.
9. Colour:
The truth about colorants. There are very few natural colorants that are available for use in beauty products. And those that are available are not the bright, vibrant colours you see on the shelf. They tend to be earthy type colours of brown and green shades. So, where do the pretty colours come from? They are synthetic, often petrochemical toxins. Look for FD&C or D&C followed by a number. For example – FD&C Blue No. 8. Avoid any product with these toxins.
10. Triethanolamine (TEA):
A long list of reactions can occur from exposure to this chemical. Often used to balance out the pH of a product, sort of a short cut ingredient. Look for it mainly in skin cleansers.
11. Phenoxyethanol:
A chemical preservative. We were actually told by a factory that Phenoxyethanol has been used for decades and is a safe ingredient. When we replied that the tobacco industry used the exact same arguement in favor of cigarettes, the conversation ended abruptly. This is a widely used preservative in the beauty industry. Also known under the brand names; Dowanol, Arosol, Emery 6705, Phenoxetol, Rose ether, Phenoxyethanol alcohol, and Glycol Monophenyl Ether. It is toxic. But don’t take our word for it. The FDA itself has warned against the ingredient as being potentially harmful to infants. Here is a quote directly from the FDA website: “Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that is primarily used in cosmetics and medications. It also can depress the central nervous system and may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration in infants.” Avoid. Enough said.
12. Petrochemical Ingredients:
We have singled out some of the worst offenders, but clearly all petrochemicals should be avoided. Petrochemical distillates are banned in Europe. They are cheap to make and use and are often irritating to the skin and in some cases toxic.
13. Phthalates (Diethyl Phthalate):
Commonly found in fragrance, nail polish, deodorant, and body lotions. Industrial chemical. Research has linked to potential birth defects in male reproductive system. This chemical is used inside and outside of the beauty industry. This chemical has been found in urine samples and remains in the bloodstream and tissue. Avoid whenever possible.
posted by Nina
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 http://realizebeauty.wordpress.com/2009/09/08/shea-butter-the-fair-trade-way/
 Akoma gets a mention!Â
posted by Nina
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